Adventure Advisor:

You already know about the diving. Here's what else you can expect to find on Roatan: thousands of biting sand flies and hundreds of resort-dwelling vacationers. I can't help you with the sand flies (they're everywhere-- the only way to dodge them is to stay off the beaches). But you can avoid those pesky humans by escaping to the nearby Hog Islands. This clump of privately owned cays surrounds a marine preserve that is teeming with tropical fish. After your relatively crowded stay on Roatan, the Hog Islands will be a welcome detour.

If you'd rather spend your extra time on land, head for Marino Punta Sal National Park, just west of Tecal. There are so many pelicans and toucans in close range that it won't matter if the humidity fogs your binoculars. Since getting there requires some seriously rugged bus/truck/boat travel, you might have to shave a day or two off your dive time to make this side trip fit. It's worth the sacrifice.

Mesoamerica Travel (www.mesoamerica-travel.com/english/honduras) offers a three-day, two-night guided tour of Punta Sal--not a bad idea, if you're the least bit uncomfortable with idea of bushwhacking solo.

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