Dominica has steep folded jungles, dozens of backdrops used in Pirates of the Caribean, and the chronic misfortune of being mistaken for the Dominican Republic, 500 miles to the northwest. But with few beaches and a rugged interior, it's dodged the crowds that descend upon its tax-haven neighbors every winter. Our kind of island. Last fall, I joined pro kayaker Brad Ludden and three others to paddle Dominica's unexplored rivers. We found what we'd expected—whitewater of every grade—plus much more we hadn't, like a half-day sea-kayaking route along the lush thousand-foot cliffs of the southeastern shore, superb snorkelling where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean, and guided canyoneering in the slots of Titou Gorge. These fresh pursuits cluster conveniently around the year-old, locally owned

Dominica Photo Gallery

We were already envious when associate editor Grayson Schaffer headed to Dominica to scout unrun rivers. But then he had the audacity to rub it in by e-mailing his photos around the office. See them yourself here.

Jungle Bay Resort & Spa (doubles from $500; junglebaydominica.com), 35 stilted cottages and—because this is still paradise—an airy, stone yoga studio overlooking the Atlantic.

American (aa.com) flies from Puerto Rico.