Rainier Report: Wednesday, July 31

Mount Rainier summit

9:30 a.m.: We are seriously dragging this morning. Everyone pulls their spent legs out of sleeping bags and starts stumbling around camp. Thankfully, the exhaustion on everybody's part remains a source of humor. We take it easy breaking camp today in our crevasse at 12,000 feet.

12:15 p.m.: After a seriously leisurely breakfast and long cup of tea from above camp, we again shoulder the loads and head up.

1:20 p.m.: Yesterday's climbing was steep and sometimes a tad exposed. It was also a lot more interesting than today's in that the portion of the route from 10,000 to 12,000 feet is heavily laced with crevasses. That meant a lot more switchbacking and negotiation. Today's climbing is just a long, hard push straight up a 35-degree snow slope. It's occasionally nerve wracking as the day proceeds; we're so ridiculously burdened, and I feel extremely top heavy. Stabbing my crampons in firmly has become increasingly difficult.

2:24 p.m.: We pass a 15-foot section of very steep snow that really makes me tense. Again, the load is really having its way with me and I'm starting to doubt my ability to stay standing after each step, much less execute an effective self-arrest with this big pack jerking me around from behind.

3:45 p.m.: We rest on a ledge up high. It's the first real rest we've had where we aren't forced to hold our packs tightly to prevent them from rocketing back down to the valley.

5:13 p.m.: We're getting close. The slope is gradually easing toward level, an indication that we're nearing the summit. Anthony, slumping momentarily over his ice ax, turns and says, "I've flown in combat, been shot at, and run in six marathons. Those were easy compared to this." As a helicopter pilot for the Army reserve, hang glider pilot, paraglider, surfer, and accomplished rock climber (he's put up several first ascents in the 5.12 range), it means something when he says that.

6:05 p.m.: We finally make it! We're standing at the summit with a full 360-degree view of the Puget Sound, Mount Baker, Mount Adams, Glacier Peak, Mount St. Helens. I even think I can see some rolling brown hills off in Eastern Washington. It feels great. The summit is a big place. Formed of two volcanic craters, one old and one new. It looks like two rings linking slightly at the edge. One is much taller than the other. At the meeting point is the true summit, 14,410 feet.

Camping on the east crater; true summit in background

6:45 p.m.: Okay, euphoria over. Now we're struggling to hack a tent platform and kitchen area into the snow. Only there isn't much snow--mostly ice. After a foot of digging through consolidated snow, we literally have to smash our way to a level sleeping area with our ice axes. Each swing takes a huge toll. I can barely breathe and my head is pounding. I feel like I'm drunk.

8:34 p.m.: The tents are finally up. I collapse into my slot. My head and body ache everywhere. I can't think straight. Mark and Anthony also seem affected, but Keil and Annabel hardly seem to notice what we've just done.

They continue cooking, making sure we all eat a hot meal and drink lots of hot cocoa. The nourishment helps. And we hit the rack.